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Aide Perez : Nirasaki and its surroundings in the prefecture of Yamanashi are not for the faint-hearted. Serious hikers and those longing for rich natural beauty won’t be disappointed. Just 40 minutes into the train ride that takes us from Shinjuku to Nirasaki City provides a taste of things to come. Nature welcomes you into Yamanashi by means of endless hills that bring a promise of peace within its forests. Yamanashi
Prefecture is located in the center of Honshu, Japan’s main island, and
affords the weary Tokyo resident an easy getaway from the city buzz. Of
course, this prefecture’s attractions are not only exclusive to the city’s
dwellers — Mount Fuji, the five lakes and their breathtaking scenery make
it a favorite destination for people all over Japan, as well as an irresistible
temptation for overseas visitors.
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Practical Accommodations; Delicious Meals It is not until we take a left turn away from the main road that we understand the sigh of resignation that comes from the taxi driver when we inform him that we want to go to Aoki Kosen Onsen — the 40 minute ride from the train station would in fact not be too long if it were not for the state of the torturous road that take us there. Nevertheless, yet another promise of tranquillity. A bus can also take you there from Nirasaki Station although its frequency would need to be timed with your schedule, and, at a cost of ¥1,500 per ticket plus a charge for carrying your bags, the taxi alternative for a group of four at around ¥7,000 may not be such a costly option in comparison. Aoki Kosen is located at the feet of Hoosanzan which is part of the Japan Southern Alps range. Its main three peaks, Jisoogadake, Kannondake and Yakushidake, look down into the peaceful surroundings that envelop the traditional construction of this inn. The original two-story building dates back to the early Meiji period and it was renovated in the 1970´s when further modules were added in line with the design of the main house. A large parking lot with a capacity for 100 cars is also available. Although the inn has a modest appearance, it is a beautiful conservative construction that blends perfectly into the green background of the forest — pottery and other simple details inside the main dining hall provide a clue of its past. As it is today, Aoki Kosen preserves the nostalgic feel that traditional Japanese accommodation provides to its guests. Simple and robust, this inn presents itself with the main qualities that characterize people from Yamanashi — said to have built a character of patience and endurance due to the inland location of their land and their ability to overcome the sometimes severe elements of nature over long periods of time. Aoki Kosen is a known stop-over resting place for those that travel there with a very specific purpose in mind: to climb the peaks of Hoosanzan. The offer is therefore simple but effective and the welcome is warm-hearted and friendly. Aoki Kosen opens to guests and visitors from April (Golden Week) until the end of November Rooms are at two different prices throughout the open period: ¥10,000 and ¥12,000, and the difference is not the result of any variations between the accommodation itself but the facilities provided — the higher price will entitle you to a yukata and some slight changes in the dinner and breakfast menu. Possibly the most pleasant surprise of it all is to find the immediate vicinity practically deserted of other travellers and crowds, which at the peak of Obon — when we travel there — can only be described as nothing short of a miracle. Nothing disturbs the natural calmness of the location and immediately we find ourselves enchanted by the green tranquillity of the place. Nearby, the waters of Komukawa river sing a constant song of coolness that shake off the heat of a Japan summer. We are taken to our room — one of Aoki Kosen’s 25 simple lodgings: 6 tatami mats in size with a closet for your futon, a small table and two zabuton cushions. A nice mosquito-netted shoji window frames the wonderful view of nature you can enjoy from the room. Toilet facilities are located outside at the end of a long corridor and we are told that this is the case for all rooms at the inn. Dinner is promptly served at 6:30pm — it is customary for meals to be presented in the large dining room that immediately greets the visitor on arrival, but still dazzled by nature and wanting to make the most of the faint evening light we choose to stay outside, a sitting area with large wooden tables and benches. Simplicity still carries though dinner, a hearty and delicious meal of raw horse-meat — which we are told is the Yamanashi specialty. It is served with light soy sauce and wasabi and has a tender, mild and pleasant taste. We also enjoy delicious tempura, pickled vegetables, grilled yamame — Japanese trout —, koya-dofu and miso soup. We are told that all the vegetables served are locally grown or collected from the mountains where they grow wild in the forest. The fish is caught in the near-by rivers. Only one word of warning for the ál-fresco diners: you will have a feast, but so will the mosquitoes, so do come prepared.
A Challenge not Undertaken As it often happens, the fresh mountain air seems to also carry the ability to put everyone at ease in a spirit of collective fellowship. Whilst Aoki Kosen serves as the assembly point for people that intend to climb Hoosanzan — or otherwise descend from the top — the common objective of everyone we meet leads to good-humored conversation with our fellow hikers, who share their experiences with us and provide very useful information about the area. As we plan the following day’s adventure, we learn that all three peaks provide quite a vertical challenge: Jisoogadake is 2,764 meters high and Yakushidake 2,780 meters, whilst the highest peak is Kannondake at 2,840 meters of steep climb. The reward is well worth the effort — at the top of Kannondake magnificent views of Mount Fuji, Japan’s highest peak, and Kitadake, Japan’s second highest peak are the gift of nature to those that make it to the top. The climb to the top of Kannondake can be completed in approximately six hours, to which you would need to allow another six for the descent back to Aoki Kosen. Despite the menacing activity of the day ahead, we do not want to retire without the compulsive visit to the baths. Guests at Aoki Kosen can enjoy two indoor o-furo — one for men and one for women. The simple stone baths are filled with mountain water as opposed to natural volcanic hot spring water, and I am told that this is the difference between a “kosen” and an “onsen”. Nevertheless, the natural minerals that are carried in the water provide relaxation and promises of health to the tired visitor. The water is heated by fires that are fed with local wood and it is hot “even for us Japanese”, as I am told by a friendly guest. Towels are not provided, so make sure you have a good strategy in place when you put your “modesty towel” to use because that is all you will be given. You can enjoy basic washing facilities that are limited to soap, but the no-nonsense approach carries on into the baths and shampoo and other amenities are not provided. Tsutumi-san, the inn’s owner maintains its status as a ryokan but it is other guests’ opinions — as well as ours’ — that it should be more appropriately qualified as a minshuku due to the simplicity of its service. We sleep in the luxury of silence and the smell from the forest that the breeze brings into our room. In the morning, a breakfast of dry grilled fish, egg, rice, miso soup and wild mountain vegetables sets us off for the day’s climb. We decide that we are unprepared for a 12-hour hike and opt for a mild version of the track quite confidently demoting it to a mild stroll in comparison. The start of the route provides an option to hike by the river or head directly for the mountain so we decide to select this circle as our day’s walk and head straight for the river with the intention to return “mountain-way”. It becomes immediately apparent that the hike up Kannondake is not at beginners’ level, so come prepared for a steep climb that is not marked by a good path — the way up is however very well signalled. Plenty of water and food for the day is also recommended as you will not find many stops to stock up and provisions are limited to pot noodles at the steep price of ¥400 a go. Although we do not make it to the summit, the people we spoke to at the inn informed us that basic lodging can also be found further up the mountain for those that decide “it is all too much” but want to keep going. As an alternative to hiking and for those feeling less energetic and more in need to energize, Komugawa river offers some beautiful spots to camp for the day and set up a picnic — the fresh water that runs into the worn-out stones can provide a perfect natural wine-cooler. You can walk along the river from Aoki Kosen or drive along the track that takes you to the main road and stop wherever you spot a good place to park. Nirasaki’s offer is the simple gift of nature. The surroundings may not provide a rich choice of cultural sights or other activities in addition to hiking if all you plan for is a short weekend get-away. Ideally if you are in the mood for a good climb, your trip can be stretched out to two nights so that Hoosanzan can be fully discovered and its beautiful sights can sink in at leisure. How
to get there: Take the limited express “Azusa” on the Chuo
Honsen Line from Shinjuku Station to Nirasaki. From Nirasaki to Aoki Kosen
you can take a bus from the station at Yamanashi Chuo Kotsu bus stop (¥1,500/person
plus baggage charge): buses depart daily at 7:30 a.m., 10:30 a.m. and
2:00 p.m.. Alternatively, you can take a taxi from the station at an approximate
cost of ¥7,000. (Total travelling time by train is almost 2 hours, and
around 55 minutes by bus from Nirasaki or 40 minutes by taxi.) |
