How to get there:
Tokaido Shinkansen stops
at Maibara Sta. Tokyo Sta.-Maibara Sta. one way ´11,550. Otsu, Nagahama and Hikone are reached on the JR Biwako Line.

JR Infoline in English:
(03) 3423-0111

Accommodation:
For reasonably priced Japanese-style accommodation, try a minshuku,
or a privately owned inn.
Shiga-ken Minshuku Kyokai publishes a pamphlet with all minshuku listed.
Or call to reserve (077) 523-2757

Tourist Info:
* Shiga Pref. Tokyo Office of Tourism and Industry (03) 3231-6131
* Otsu Sta. Kanko Annaijo (0775) 22-3830
* Hikone-shi Sangyo-bu Kanko-ka (0749) 22-1411
* Nagahama Kanko Joho Center (0749) 64-0911
* Nagahama Sta. Kanko Center (0749) 62-3222
* Hikone-jo Hakubutsukan (Hikone Castle Museum) (0749) 22-6100
* Nagahama-jo Rekishi Shiryo-kan (Nagahama Castle Historical Museum) (0749) 63- 4091
* Biwako Hall (077) 523-7133

Boat Cruises:
Biwako Kisen, Otsu Harbor (077) 524-5000.

Lake Biwa (Biwako) covers one full sixth of Shiga Prefecture's total area and is Japan's largest lake at 671.67 km2. It is also said to be 5 million years old and the third oldest lake in the world after the Caspian Sea and Lake Baikal. Here live succulent catfish and 50 other species of fish, while in the north part of the lake, traces of ancient Japan slumber. The lake was once called Oomi, but some time around the late 17th Century the name Biwa began to be found in documents -- its shape resembles the eponymous musical instrument.

There are of course numerous scenic spots in this area -- the more famous being the "Oomi Hakkei" (Eight Views of Oomi, or eight famous scenic spots in Oomi Province, now Shiga Prefecture) which include evening snow on Mt. Hira and the sunset glow over Seta. These scenes were praised in a poem dated 1500 by Konoe Masaie and his son Naomichi.

If you plan a shorter trip out to this area, it is better to select the destinations in advance, since there are so many to choose from. Shiga Prefecture operates a Tokyo Office just outside Tokyo Sta. Yaesu Exit, and has quite a good selection of pamphlets in English. The staff take pleasure in recommending their favorite routes, activities and interesting festivals.

The capital of Shiga Prefecture is Otsu, which lies at the southern part of the lake. Otsu was the capital of Japan for just a short while in the 700s when Emperor Tenji moved the capital from Yamato (Nara), but was destroyed in the Onin Rebellion only five years later. The place has a nice blend of modern tourist facilities and historical and cultural sights. This month, moon-viewing in Otsu is rather famous. You can see the moon reflected on the giant rocks in the garden at Ishiyamadera Temple. The garden even boasts a Tsukimi-tei, or moon-viewing house. Legend has it that Murasaki Shikibu wrote the classical literary work Genji Monogatari in the Genji no Ma of this temple. You shouldn't miss Ukimi-do either, a temple located on the shores of the lake at Katata.

Biwako Hall opens this month, a monument of modern architecture on the shoreline. The opening gala is held Sept. 5, and tickets cost ¥3,500-¥9,500. Or you might reserve for the largest festival in Otsu, Otsu Festival, which takes place next month on Oct. 9 & 10.

Soon, but not too soon though, we will be entering the colder season, and a soak in an onsen calls. There are plenty of good onsen in Otsu, where by sitting in the rotenburo you can overlook the lake and the snow-covered mountains as its backdrop. Try the famous winter dish -- duck sukiyaki -- afterwards.

Further up along the east shore of Lake Biwa, Hikone-jo Castle, built in 1606, stands proudly with a great view of the lake. It will soon be surrounded by red autumn leaves, and in the spring, more than 1,000 cherry trees blossom. Much of this castle is in its original state, so there is a bit of a walk to cover the area. Cross the moats and walk around the different houses and buildings, many housing museums and galleries.

Hikone-jo Matsuri is held from the end of next month to the beginning of November to celebrates the birthday of Ii Naosuke, a powerful daimyo feudal lord. It features a procession of children dressed as daimyo, open-air koto performances, and a big tea party.

Another fine castle with a view of the lake is Nagahama Castle, now also a museum. Here Toyotomi Hideyoshi first took control of the country. During Nagahama Shusse Matsuri which takes place Oct. 3 & 4, about 2,000 women walk around the city dressed in kimono. There is also a big flea market of arts and crafts.

Kurokabe Glass-kan is located in the center of Nagahama. It used to be a bank in the Meiji Era, but now exhibits glass from all over the world. You can try making glass yourself at a workshop, or just look, and visit one of the many restaurants in the area.

And if the lake's lure keeps bringing you back to the shoreline, take one of the cruises available to satisfy the mystery of Lake Biwa.